It’s hard to fit all of this information into a short video, but it’s super important to understand the basics before reading a surf forecast. A report that says 4ft on Sunday, might not mean that is going to be 4ft at your local break, or at the beach around the corner. This video aims […]
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Brian Rasmussen
2 years ago
Great video. Beau, you did manage to keep it somehow interesting :o)
Interesting video Beau. I love this sort of thing. I’ve been trying to find out more about my local coast in East Yorkshire. I’d not heard of bathymetric maps before, but haven’t been able to find anything. Imagine it would be really interesting round here with nearly 30 lost towns out there under the waves.
Wow, sounds like it would be cool to get your hands on something like that to see what’s around your area. I had a quick look, but nothing notable pops up with really detailed bathymetry of the sea floor. Seems like a paid product would be the solution. Glad you enjoyed the video.
seanross
2 years ago
I enjoyed that for sure. Keep them coming. A good level of technical for me. My one question is for the period of waves, you were saying that only waves of a much longer period can continue over a long distance. Does this mean that the original propagation of the storm will have to be much more powerful and create a much bigger wave in the beginning, so that they even out over distance to become the beautiful big long period waves that we dream about? (ie., long period big waves on the shore mean a huge short period wave… Read more »
Hey Sean Sorry, Beau is on his hols at the mo. But yes, the bigger the storm the longer its blowing for and the further away it is the better the swell period will become. The swell will loose its size over a long distance but at the same it it will get a better period. The best swells always start far out at sea and have time to travel to the coast. But not all breaks want high period swells. For example our local beach doesn’t work as well if the period is over 17sec. Its a long flat… Read more »
Paul Alan Purnell
2 years ago
Hi Beau, very interesting and informative article but for one thing I can’t find the Windy.app could you post a link or the full description please, I’m using IOS.
Hi Paul, Check out this link https://windy.app and scroll to the bottom, where just above the footer menu is the download links for the app on your phone. Hope this helps?
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Great video. Beau, you did manage to keep it somehow interesting :o)
Thanks Brian.
Interesting video Beau. I love this sort of thing. I’ve been trying to find out more about my local coast in East Yorkshire. I’d not heard of bathymetric maps before, but haven’t been able to find anything. Imagine it would be really interesting round here with nearly 30 lost towns out there under the waves.
Wow, sounds like it would be cool to get your hands on something like that to see what’s around your area. I had a quick look, but nothing notable pops up with really detailed bathymetry of the sea floor. Seems like a paid product would be the solution.
Glad you enjoyed the video.
I enjoyed that for sure. Keep them coming. A good level of technical for me. My one question is for the period of waves, you were saying that only waves of a much longer period can continue over a long distance. Does this mean that the original propagation of the storm will have to be much more powerful and create a much bigger wave in the beginning, so that they even out over distance to become the beautiful big long period waves that we dream about? (ie., long period big waves on the shore mean a huge short period wave… Read more »
Hey Sean Sorry, Beau is on his hols at the mo. But yes, the bigger the storm the longer its blowing for and the further away it is the better the swell period will become. The swell will loose its size over a long distance but at the same it it will get a better period. The best swells always start far out at sea and have time to travel to the coast. But not all breaks want high period swells. For example our local beach doesn’t work as well if the period is over 17sec. Its a long flat… Read more »
Hi Beau,
very interesting and informative article but for one thing I can’t find the Windy.app could you post a link or the full description please, I’m using IOS.
Hi Paul, Check out this link https://windy.app and scroll to the bottom, where just above the footer menu is the download links for the app on your phone. Hope this helps?
Thanks Beau,
Much appreciated