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How To Read A Forecast / An In-depth Analysis On Surf Forecasting

It’s hard to fit all of this information into a short video, but it’s super important to understand the basics before reading a surf forecast. A report that says 4ft on Sunday, might not mean that is going to be 4ft at your local break, or at the beach around the corner. This video aims […]

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Brian Rasmussen
Brian Rasmussen
1 month ago

Great video. Beau, you did manage to keep it somehow interesting :o)

1 month ago

Interesting video Beau. I love this sort of thing. I’ve been trying to find out more about my local coast in East Yorkshire. I’d not heard of bathymetric maps before, but haven’t been able to find anything. Imagine it would be really interesting round here with nearly 30 lost towns out there under the waves.

1 month ago

I enjoyed that for sure. Keep them coming. A good level of technical for me. My one question is for the period of waves, you were saying that only waves of a much longer period can continue over a long distance. Does this mean that the original propagation of the storm will have to be much more powerful and create a much bigger wave in the beginning, so that they even out over distance to become the beautiful big long period waves that we dream about? (ie., long period big waves on the shore mean a huge short period wave… Read more »

Last edited 1 month ago by seanross
Reuben Ellis
1 month ago
Reply to  seanross

Hey Sean Sorry, Beau is on his hols at the mo. But yes, the bigger the storm the longer its blowing for and the further away it is the better the swell period will become. The swell will loose its size over a long distance but at the same it it will get a better period. The best swells always start far out at sea and have time to travel to the coast. But not all breaks want high period swells. For example our local beach doesn’t work as well if the period is over 17sec. Its a long flat… Read more »

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