Learning how to paddle in surf stance is a great skill to have. You will catch more waves using it and find that your balance and foot work around the board will become easier too. It takes a bit of practice but have a go on flat water first and then progress into the waves.
Paddling in surf stance isn’t just about the surf. It’s also the first step into doing step back turns and other manoeuvres on flat water too… so get practicing.
Feature image : Martin schoppler
Extra footage : Clive Boaden
Is that a shark in the wave behind you … around the 20 sec time ???
Not sure, like to say no!