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Mid day surfing on an unclouded day was not advisable, and if attempted a full sun hat was a must.
The thin and light neoprene attire I brought was never set free from the luggage, and remained there until my return home. The surf-ware of choice was boardies, and a long sleeved rashy (after about 8am).
Six days of surfing two to three times a day was a great break from the little amount of swell we have been getting in the UK. Normally surfing that much one would pick up a strain here and there, but with the great food and warm water the muscles where well cared for, suffering no fatigue, a far cry from what we put ourselves through during our winters…
On or last day we had a nice mellow morning surf, followed by our Cantina breakfast, and then we hit the road back to our higher altitude city of origin.
Every time I go to Central America and I see fence posts along the road which have rooted and become trees, it reminds me of a line from Endless Summer II: “here’s what a two hundred year old fencepost looks like”. Classic
On his trip to Central America Glyn Ovens was riding a Fanatic 8’0” prowave ltd edition board and using a Full carbon 7.25″ paddle. To stay up to date with what Glyn is up to check out his Facebook page here.